I started with the pattern for a 3/4-sleeved t-shirt (#2) from Ottobre 2/2007 and a print cotton lycra jersey I found at www.fabric.com last spring. The original pattern has 3 pieces; my version has 4 (I don’t bother tracing patterns for binding, instead I measure & cut with a rotary cutter & ruler). Other than adding nursing access, my only change was to add a little bit of flare and length to the lower top.
I made changes to the front pattern piece to create new patterns for both under and over layer. The under layer has a scooped out armhole that can be pulled aside for nursing access. I removed a ‘J’ shaped piece, starting about 1″ in from the end of the shoulder seam and curving down to a point on the side seam about 3-4″ below the armhole. If you are larger than me, you’ll probably want to scoop out more; just be sure you have at least 2″ of overlap between the bottom of the armhole on the under layer and the lower edge of the over layer. I like to finish off the armhole by serging on 1/4″ clear elastic for recovery, but you could just finish it with a plain serged stitch or a zigzag. I don’t recommend binding or folding under the raw edge as the bulk could show from the outside.
To make the pattern for the over layer, I just shortened the front to the length I wanted for this design. I wanted this one to end shortly under the bust, so I used the front yoke piece from the maternity top for reference (my current belly shape makes try-ons difficult 
). There are several ways to finish the bottom of the over layer. If you’ve made it longer, you can hem it the same way you plan to hem the rest of the top. If it’s shorter, it’s a good idea to add some sort of elasticity to make sure it stays closer to the body to keep you covered. For this top, I added a band of coordinating solid cotton lycra jersey cut about 1″ shorter than the lower edge of the over layer and also stitched 1/4″ clear elastic to the band seam allowance.
Once the over and underlayers were prepared, I pinned them together and treated as a single front piece. Keep in mind that I like to sew dangerously; you might prefer to baste the pieces together. 
Either way, construct the rest of the shirt as usual and voila: a custom nursing top!
Because hindsight is 20/20. . .
- It doesn’t show in the picture, but I did use the vented sleeve hem as described in the directions; I’m not sure if I like it or not and it certainly gave me fits while sewing.
- I think the over layer should be shorter (maybe by an inch?) but I won’t know for sure until I can actually try on the top.
- I should have added a little more than 1″ to the length of the top; I was going for a empire waist/tunic style and it doesn’t look long enough~yes, being able to try it on will answer that question.
- I’m not sure about the flare that I added; I was aiming for an a-line shape and I think I missed. . .but again, it’s hard to tell until I can try it on.
I’ll probably take this top to wear home from the hospital. I made a pair of chocolate brown pants using Ottobre 3/2003 #42 (for about the 10th time!) but since they are a cotton velour it will likely be too warm, and I’ll take a well-aged knit skirt from Lands End instead.
the top looks great. hopefully you will be able to try it on soon.
So I’ve oogled and ahhhhed before over the concept of Ottebre – have you found it to be worth what seems to me to be a really high subscription price?
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Once again, I find myself frustrated beyond belief at my horrid serger, seeing that beautiful jersey, which my serger would just chew up .. but that’s a rant for my own blog.
I started with a back issue before I took the plunge. . .although I think I went straight to the computer and subscribed the very day my back issue arrived.
Here’s how I do the math: I can’t remember the current conversion rate, but it’s about $10-15 per issue. The kids’ issues have about 40 patterns each, the women’s issues have 20. Obviously I don’t make everything in each issue, but over the course of time I average at least 6-10 garments per issue (different patterns or multiples of the same pattern). That brings the pattern cost per garment easily within range of sale patterns at the chain fabric stores with one big exception: the end results! They almost always fit better and are usually more stylish. I’ve hardly bought any kids patterns since subscribing (I have every issue from 2002 on); when I want to sew for the kids I browse my issues and almost always find something that works (and is in the right size).
hope this helps!
(sorry can’t help with the serger~does it need a tune up or is it more than that?)
Thanks for the advice on Ottebre. Your reasoning makes a lot of sense. Sounds like something to put on my Christmas list. I “hear your pain” about getting a better fit – that’s been a major complaint of mine re: the Big 3 pattern makers – by the time you make a muslin, do all the re-adjusting, you’ve done almost as much work as drafting the pattern from scratch!
My serger is an el-cheapo which I bought at a garage sale – I’m not sure what’s wrong with it, and I don’t have the money to take it in. It supposedly has differential feed, which isn’t working properly. It’s mostly ok on wovens, although I’m constantly rethreading it due to broken threads. Knits and fleece, though – if it doesn’t literally chew up the fabric, it hangs the overcasting waaayyy off the edge of the fabric. So my knits & fleece itmes get left un-finished inside. Boo-hoo.
Someday I’ll appreciate a brand-new decent serger all the more for having suffered with this one for so long, right? (Or so I tell myself!)